Issue 01 — A small island, an honest welcome

Your tropicalparadise awaits.

Five hundred square miles of rainforest, harbour and one quietly active volcano — twenty thousand neighbours and a longer story than the brochures will tell you. Stay a while.

Photo by Michael on Unsplash
From the field

Where to begin.

A short list of the things we keep telling visitors about — start anywhere, take your time.

A small island, an honest welcome.


I came to Taniti eight years ago on assignment from Honolulu and never quite left. It’s a small island—under 500 square miles—but it doesn’t read that way once you’ve driven the coast, crossed the rain forest, and seen the volcano sitting quiet above the trees. There are about 20,000 people here, and you can still feel the old economy in the way folks talk about boats, crops, and weather before they talk about hotels. Tourism pays more of the bills now. That’s true. It’s also true that the island still knows what it is, which is usually the more useful fact.

What's changed, what hasn't.


Merriton Landing is the part of Taniti that grew fastest, the boomtown on Yellow Leaf Bay's north arm where the tour boats, zip-line operators, helicopter pad, and newer hotels all piled in at once. Some locals like the work. Some just live with it. The old town still keeps its own pace, and the harbor bar still closes at midnight, which tells you plenty about what the place has decided not to become.

The things I'd do first.


  1. Take the Blue Line bus around the island for a flat $1 fare.
  2. Eat at Kahula's Fish House before you start judging the rest of the trip.
  3. Walk the harbor at dusk when the light goes soft and the boats settle down.
  4. Spend a morning in the rainforest or up near the volcano, whichever weather allows.
  5. Get a place to sleep near where you'll spend your first day, then orient yourself before you try to do too much.

Before you come.


Trip preparation is where the easy mistakes get caught—transport, weather, timing, and the plain fact that Taniti rewards people who know what they're walking into. If you want the practical version first, start with the travel details and work outward from there. It'll save you a little guesswork once you arrive.

Start your journey